EXHAUST
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rysyndrome
New member
pics of it on the bike? so you bought the full yosh exhaust and had it painted satin black? or bought the yosh slip-on that color and had the stock header coated in what? appreciate it
rysyndrome
New member
nevermind on my previous post, though would still like to see pics of the setup on the bike. so $350 + cost of slip-on for this setup? what color was the slip-on before? looks really good
Speedo007
New member
Started out like this: Stock headers with Yoshi stainless slip-on with the intention of making it black later as personally I'm just not a huge fan of the carbon fiber look.
Just had the stock headers and slip-on ceramic coated for 350$. I'll take pictures once it's installed this week but it should look like this:
Just had the stock headers and slip-on ceramic coated for 350$. I'll take pictures once it's installed this week but it should look like this:
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Speedo007
New member
Graves Motorsports Yamaha FZ8 Full Stainless Steel Exhaust System
For those still shopping, I think the dyno charts on this Graves complete exhauts line are the best I've seen so far...I suspect it will be quite loud though, as cat is removed and exhaust is so small and short.
For those still shopping, I think the dyno charts on this Graves complete exhauts line are the best I've seen so far...I suspect it will be quite loud though, as cat is removed and exhaust is so small and short.
Speedo007
New member
I like how it looks too (though not a fan of the carbon fiber) like how small and low it is. Only thing is here I could probably collect a ticket a week with a slip-on like that, cause first it would be very loud and second it looks like a race exhaust so police would know right away that it's aftermarket. My yoshi in black will look quite stock 
hutru01
Knights of Columbus
I used hi temp paint on the headers of my first bike (92 Honda CB750). It faded away, but still looked better than rust colored ones.
Speedo007
New member
Just the headers would cost you under 200$ for professionally done ceramic coating. Considering it prevents rusts, is very resistant to rocks and stuff, I'd go that route. Otherwise it might work with just hi temp paint, but if it doesnt you'll have to take em off again, get then sandblasted to remove paint properly (many places simply can't be sanded by hand). And that's without mentioning everytime you remove the headers you should change the gaskets. So if you're on a budget you may just want to save up a bit and have it done right from the start, it will look better and last longer. I'd put high temp paint on an old bike project for sure, but not on a new bike.
And seriously when you go pick up your headers at the paint shop, you'll be thrilled you spent a little more, really looks like it should have coming out of the factory instead of the ugly welding we see on the stock ones.
And seriously when you go pick up your headers at the paint shop, you'll be thrilled you spent a little more, really looks like it should have coming out of the factory instead of the ugly welding we see on the stock ones.
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Speedo007
New member
So here we go at the bike shop. I'll take better pictures when I get it outside but raining today and water on the ceramic coated headers is the last thing you want until they are cured...Thursday should be my first official ride of the season! Really like how the headers look compared to the spotted headers
And here's one without the belly pan so you see the headers properly
Here's a view of my headers with the ceramic coating in studio setup:
And here's an installation tip. The paint shop will give you back your parts wrapped in some thin foam, just unwrap the areas you need to access for installation, then once you're done you remove the rest (to avoid any scratches). Then once your done you use a soft rag with rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol 70% USP that you find in drugstores) once your sure it's all clean. Then instructions from my paint guy are as follow: you start up the bike as usual and let it warm up like you would for any ride. Then you go ride it for 20-30 minutes normally avoiding as much as possible heavy traffic as you want the curing process to be done gradually without reaching excessive temperatures during the process. Once that's done you stop the bike let it cool down, and you're done, now it's cured and stable and should be very resistant to water, heat, sand, whatever gets thrown at it. The most important part is to avoid leaving greasy fingertips on the parts before curing the ceramic and avoiding water coming in contact with the coating during curing as it will most likely leave spots or worse.
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mikefz8
New member
Thanks
Personally, I think black forks are too much. I have an all black fz8 minus the stock forks which are still gold. I would prefer another color. I am looking at painting mine as well, but I would not go with all black. Maybe it would look differently in person though. Just my 2c, sweet bike though and i like the stand you have mounted on your bike. Where did you get it?
Speedo007
New member
It's from the Yamaha catalog, I think it was around 225$CDN if I remember well...