Autotune install?

[FZER]

What all do you have to do to install the autotuner for the pc5

 

[ramrod]

Install is really straight forward, hardest part is having someone weld the O2 bung on your collector pipe. Fortunetly I bought a Graves Motorsport Full Exhaust system that has a bung specifically welded for the Autotune.

1. Install wideband O2 sensor
2. Route supplied cable to autotune and terminate 6 wires into unit
3. Connect Autotune to PCV, install terminating plug *must use* into autotune
4. Splice power wire that is on when bike in turned on (I used the rear tail light 12VDC) and terminate ground wire to chassis (Used nut in rear section as well)
5. Enable Autotune in PCV, test unti and ride.

That's pretty much it. Here is a link to the install guide. Let me know if you'd like me to post some pics of my set up.

 

[DJK1505]

Drill out your old O2 sensor bung plug, weld in the bung they send with the auto tune, pull power and ground from your tail light wire it up. Not too hard, took me about 2 hours to do the whole thing. Just finished it this evening, will do the first tune session (ride) tomorrow morning.

DJ

 

[ramrod]

Drill out your old O2 sensor bung plug, weld in the bung they send with the auto tune, pull power and ground from your tail light wire it up. Not too hard, took me about 2 hours to do the whole thing. Just finished it this evening, will do the first tune session (ride) tomorrow morning.

DJ

So you're only running the wideband O2 sensor then? I thought both sensors were needed.

 

[lyric911]

So you're only running the wideband O2 sensor then? I thought both sensors were needed.

The narrow band is not needed. You can remove the O2 optimizer thing as well. Confirmed this with dynojet.

Anyone have pictures of what they did with the giant connector for the wideband after installing the Autotune?

 

[ramrod]

I called Dynojet asking the same question and they said that both had to be in. After holding for about 30 minutes I talked to someone at Tech. Support, hmmm...

When I ran the cable and put a small service loop under the gas tank in order to keep it taught. I'll snap off a pic and post it up later tonight.

 

[Deleted member 438]

Like lyric said, the stock o2 goes in the trash and the wideband goes in it's place.

 

[lyric911]

If the stock O2 is still in, you cannot autotune the open-loop area (or is it closed? I always get them mixed up). The area that has no numbers in the downloaded maps.

 

[ramrod]

Like lyric said, the stock o2 goes in the trash and the wideband goes in it's place.

I did some searching with regards to this and saw that the install instructions on some bikes said to remove old O2 and others said to keep the stock O2. Since there is some conflicting statements between when I called and when lyric called I shot them the below email:

I recently installed your Power Commander V and Auto tune and I have a couple questions.

Am I required to completely remove my stock O2 sensor and O2 optimizer or do I leave it in with the provided wide band O2 sensor?
If I am required to run both O2 sensors, does it matter which O2 sensor comes first?
Unsure if it matters but I have an aftermarket full exhaust with no Cat. Appreciate any light you can shed on this, thanks.


This was their response:

The O2 optimizer for this model controls the stock closed loop area. This area is represented by the highlighted cells shown in Figure M. The optimizer is designed to achieve a target AFR of 13.6:1. To use this optimizer you must retain your stock O2 sensors.
It is not necessary to input values in the highlighted area. If using the Auto tune system do NOT input values in this area in your Target AFR table.

With this type of optimizer you will need to have both o2 sensors in the exhaust and active.

It does not matter which one goes before the other.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Regards,

Chris Kelly
Dynojet Research Inc.
2191 Mendenhall Dr. Suite 105
North Las Vegas, NV 89081
1-800-992-4993


Have you guys noticed any difference since you've deinstalled your stock O2 sensor? Not sure if the bike has CEL, but any lights illuminate?

 

[lyric911]

No CEL of any kind.

I wish I could find the email, but as best I can remember...so paraphrased:

"If you have removed the stock O2, you may input values in the closed loop area."

I have done so, and it tunes that area just the same as any other.

 

[FZER]

Yeah I'm pretty sure on my gsxr I did what lyric and doom did. I remember yoshi actually offering welding service for the new bung. Shame on dynojet for not supplying a sensor that just bolts in. I guess for now I'll just run my full Akrapovic exhaust and graves block plates. I really want some new mirrors, so it's mirrors or a PCV running Dooms map, because I can't drop for the PCV and auto tune just yet. I'm really leaning to getting the rizoma spy Q mirrors first. Any feedback?

 

[Blinkgold311]

Install is really straight forward, hardest part is having someone weld the O2 bung on your collector pipe. Fortunetly I bought a Graves Motorsport Full Exhaust system that has a bung specifically welded for the Autotune.

1. Install wideband O2 sensor
2. Route supplied cable to autotune and terminate 6 wires into unit
3. Connect Autotune to PCV, install terminating plug *must use* into autotune
4. Splice power wire that is on when bike in turned on (I used the rear tail light 12VDC) and terminate ground wire to chassis (Used nut in rear section as well)
5. Enable Autotune in PCV, test unti and ride.

That's pretty much it. Here is a link to the install guide. Let me know if you'd like me to post some pics of my set up.

I called PowerCommander as well... You MUST leave the factory O2 sensor in the exhaust line, although you can use the factory location for the auto-tune if you want and move the factory O2 sensor. Here is the question I have... What kind of machine did you guys use to weld the O2 bung into the exhaust? I only have access to an Arc welder and i believe this would probably melt a hole in the exhaust piping...

 

[Marthy]

I called PowerCommander as well... You MUST leave the factory O2 sensor in the exhaust line, although you can use the factory location for the auto-tune if you want and move the factory O2 sensor. Here is the question I have... What kind of machine did you guys use to weld the O2 bung into the exhaust? I only have access to an Arc welder and i believe this would probably melt a hole in the exhaust piping...

TIG...

 

[lyric911]

I called PowerCommander as well... You MUST leave the factory O2 sensor in the exhaust line, although you can use the factory location for the auto-tune if you want and move the factory O2 sensor. Here is the question I have... What kind of machine did you guys use to weld the O2 bung into the exhaust? I only have access to an Arc welder and i believe this would probably melt a hole in the exhaust piping...

Here's the convo we had:

Me: This is for a Yamaha FZ8, 2011. From the install guide: If using the Autotune system do NOT input values in this area in your Target AFR table. Can you explain the reasoning behind this and what will go wrong if one does put values in this area? Thanks!

Them: If the stock o2 sensor and the Auto-tune o2 sensor are both active in the specified range, they will basically be fighting each other and the bike will constantly be changing rich, lean, rich, lean, etc. This will cause a surging effect while riding in the area.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Me: And what if the stock O2 sensor was removed when the Auto tune was installed?

Them: If the stock o2 sensor is not active then you can use Auto-tune across all RPMs and throttle positions.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

--------------

I have no CEL, Autotune works great, and I can autotune the closed (or is it open?) loop range that the manual says not to.

 

[SD70M2]

I am so friggin confused right now. I have an autotune sitting here but I have acquired a map from Doom that I intend to run as this tuning crap is scaring me senseless. So should I go ahead and install it when I do my pipes and leave it inactive AND, if I do install it do I install it with the stocker or in place of?

 

[Blinkgold311]

Yes, for 2011 FZ8, but the guy i talked to today seemed pretty adamant about doing that on a 2012 FZ8. I'll have to call back tomorrow and get a better answer and re-post.

 

[ramrod]

Yes, for 2011 FZ8, but the guy i talked to today seemed pretty adamant about doing that on a 2012 FZ8. I'll have to call back tomorrow and get a better answer and re-post.

Hey Blink, I just got your PM. Sorry for the late reply, Tuesday's are my busiest days and I'm just getting around to check the board at 2100. I have the Wideband o2 sensor in the front bung right after the collector and the stock o2 sensor in the rear bung. As per requested here is the pic of my o2 placement:

The Full Graves Exhaust System comes with two o2 bungs. This is a clip from their website:

An O2 Bung (with plug) is provided for use with Dynojet's "Auto Tuner" module which allows for live, closed loop EFI tuning.

I know there are a few people that are running only the wide band o2 and report no problems. Since they are not reporting any problems and I'd imagine they are producing gains, it is open to debate which is the correct method. In my case, it is easy since the exhaust was built w/ two bungs. Good luck and happy tuning.


SD70M2: If you are getting the Graves Full Exhaust you have nothing to worry about brother.

 

[SD70M2]

Awesome, I am and it ought to be here Friday.

 

[Marthy]

Here's are my tough about it, whatever that might worth. If the stock bike has a O2 sensor. That mean it will compensate any change in fuel ratio to a certain point. So your bike has a 3D map. RPM, MAP and TPS all working together to make your bike run good.

So the question is, why bothering installing a PCV? and Autotune? Your bike is already doing all that...

Because the sock map suck! That's why. So my educated guess is to by-pass the stock O2 sensor and map your bike with the Autotune (Map and TPS base) to get the best tune/HP out of your bike. Disconnecting the stock O2 sensor might not be the way to go since 1- the dash light might stay on all the time. 2- Your ECU will switch to SAFE mode since one of the sensor is "faulty"

So what you need is a jumper to connect on the harness to replace the stock O2 sensor. Then you can use the A/T like it suppose to work.

Little in here on the Autotune. It will map your bike "automatically", but you need to read between the lines. If you see cells with +20 and right next to it you get -5... doesn't make sense at all. 7% correction on the PCV is about 1:1 fuel ratio. That mean if you are at 14.5:1 with 0% correction, adding 7% fuel will bring you to 13.5:1 Fuel ratio.

So if you see some crazy numbers (worst under 20% throttle... that's where you want to tune with the MAP sensor in the lower RPM) you know AT kind of fail on you... this is where you need to read between the line and smooth things out manually.

EDIT:

While you're at it make sure you connect the speed and MAP sensor to the PCV.

 

[Deleted member 438]

There are no issues with disconnecting the o2. On our bike it does not trigger a CEL or put it into safe mode. The PCV will correct the fuel in the cruise range and it will make up for not having a functioning o2. My bike runs perfectly with no surging or anything goofy going on with the fueling, and my tuner would have told me that he had problems tuning because I had no factory o2.
Edit: I can also see with my AT that my AFR's are good and stable throughout the rev range.