Marthy
Member
Hey Bro,
Is this a gear indicator in the tack? Never notice that on other bikes before...
Whats wrong with my bike? :(
- Thread starter ChuckPeazy
- Start date
Hey Bro,
Is this a gear indicator in the tack? Never notice that on other bikes before...
HIWAY
New member
thats one of your problems now since you took off the stock muffler you now need to buy a two brothers juice box pro for that aftermarket can you are running rich so get that juice box and it has a map already loaded for your fz8 and their muffler that will clear your problems
FZ8Ryder
New member
AlCab
New member
Yes it is. It's a custom install. See link below:
http://www.779cc.org/forum/how-tos/1997-how-install-acumen-dg8-gear-indicator.html
AlCab
New member
Not true. I am running an aftermarket can as well and it did not affect the starting characteristics at all.
Bajaedition
New member
I have never heard of an after market can causing a bike to run rich, heard of a lot of them causing a bike to run lean, but to make it run rich it would have to be more restrictive which after market cans are not.
I have a full graves exhaust with block off plates. A week before i put it on one of my friends put on a yoshi slip on and had warming up issues like your talking about where it ran funny warming up. The key was the block off plates.
Also i have 4000 miles and i ride from 30 degrees to 100 degrees and the bike always takes a few turnovers to start
Also i have only run 93 octane since day one. Modern technology the computers adjust to the different gas and weather constantly so there is no negative effect of running higher octane. Ive been involved in car tuning and running a higher octane even if your motor is not tuned for is better because it burns easier. You run higher octane without problems but you cant run lower octane. Also you can look at dyno studys. Take any motor run it 87 and dyno it then throw 93 without changing a thing and i guarantee you will make more power.
Also i have 4000 miles and i ride from 30 degrees to 100 degrees and the bike always takes a few turnovers to start
Also i have only run 93 octane since day one. Modern technology the computers adjust to the different gas and weather constantly so there is no negative effect of running higher octane. Ive been involved in car tuning and running a higher octane even if your motor is not tuned for is better because it burns easier. You run higher octane without problems but you cant run lower octane. Also you can look at dyno studys. Take any motor run it 87 and dyno it then throw 93 without changing a thing and i guarantee you will make more power.
b-eock
New member
Higher octane burns easier?... I'm sorry, but that's the complete opposite of the truth... The higher the octane rating, the higher the detonation temp is. I run 93 too. That's just me. I haven't had problems with it and I don't mind that little bit extra cost. But don't give out false info.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
Bajaedition
New member
Octane has no effect on how clean it burns. It is the resistance to burn. The higher octane the higher you can tune an engine without predetonation.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-efficiency/fuel-consumption/question90.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating
as you can see by reading those articles is that a higher tuned engine can derive more energy from a higher octane fuel but if the octane rating is higher than the engine needs then it is a waste of money as the engine is not tuned enough to use the extra octane.
look at it like this, the amount of energy that a engine can produce is determined by the tune of the engine, a higher compression engine produces more power but it also requires a fuel that resist ignition from heat and compression more than a low compression engine. A higher octane fuel resist ignition. It does not burn faster or cleaner, it just will not fire off as easily. once it fires it produces the same amount of energy.
So putting in a higher octane fuel than needed only cost more.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-efficiency/fuel-consumption/question90.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating
as you can see by reading those articles is that a higher tuned engine can derive more energy from a higher octane fuel but if the octane rating is higher than the engine needs then it is a waste of money as the engine is not tuned enough to use the extra octane.
look at it like this, the amount of energy that a engine can produce is determined by the tune of the engine, a higher compression engine produces more power but it also requires a fuel that resist ignition from heat and compression more than a low compression engine. A higher octane fuel resist ignition. It does not burn faster or cleaner, it just will not fire off as easily. once it fires it produces the same amount of energy.
So putting in a higher octane fuel than needed only cost more.
Last edited:
pigdog
New member
when it finally starts dont rev your engine until it comes off of high idle. if i could make a suggestion, put a full charge on your battery. im in ca. too so its not a cold start issue. best guess, batt cable to ground or bat to stater loose. easy fix & its easy to check, by hands on wiggling cables at both ends
As far as the original post goes:
Definitely need to hold the starter a little longer. Mine (a 13) will do the same thing if I don't let it catch, though it's only a fraction of a second longer than you were holding the starter.
I think I have an idea on the throttle blip problem. The bike's stock fuel injection completely (or nearly so) kills the fuel use on engine braking. If you're being really abrupt on and off in the blip, it could be the engine braking. Mine does EXACTLY this fully warmed if I'm too quick with a blip, usually at slow speeds when putting on the clutch to come into the garage. It's never actually stalled from it though.
Also, please let the bike warm up a little before any revving - oils and gasoline thin out slightly when warm, so you aren't getting the normal lubrication and air/fuel mix until it's all warm.
As far as the fuel smell goes, it's possible your bike had its air injection system removed, and potentially its catalytic converter gutted. I wouldn't worry about it unless you're getting a very low gas mileage. When I'm gentle, I get 41mpg on a stock bike (and I'm a very big guy - I present a LOT of wind resistance).
The posters above were right about that "broken button" - it's for the emergency flashers on Euro and other models. We don't get it stateside.
Hope this helps, and welcome to the community!
DFCO (deceleration fuel cutoff) doesn't work in neutral Please explain DFCO (Deceleration Fuel Cut Off) - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum - EcoModder.com
I don't believe FZ8 does this, but some sporty cars have a low temperature fuel cutoff which maybe, possibly could explain?
I always wait until the bike is at LEAST not reading "Lo" anymore before I even start moving.
And lastly, catalytic converters take time to get hot, so it won't help with exhaust smell until hot.
Astonished at the misconceptions and the misconceptions of those misconceptions.
So, so not right. Gas doesn't have ANY effect of compression. Compression DOES have an effect on gas though.