Starting with COLD engine

tiagovsilva

New member
Ok, so I tested this out this morning after the bike was sitting for 3 days. I held the clutch in and pressed the starter for about 2 seconds and the bike fired right up. Now this is only my second bike so I don't know what "normal" should be here. In either case, it seemed to start easier than when I wasn't holding the clutch.

Is 2 seconds too long or should it be more instantaneous?


Hi..

This is my bike starting...


cold start without pulling the clutch lever:

Chirbit - fz8 starting - tiagovsilva - share audio easily

cold start with the clutch lever pulled:


Chirbit - fz8 - tiagovsilva - share audio easily


Chirbit - c_embraiagem tempo quente - tiagovsilva - share audio easily


cold start with the clutch lever pulled in a very cold morning:


Chirbit - c_embraiagem tempo frio - tiagovsilva - share audio easily


Even in a very cold morning it don't hesitate like the file without the clutch.. just take more time.. but pretty normal to me now.

The cold start without pulling the clutch lever that you hear (the 1st file), is not normal and not acceptable to me.

In this video that i've made, the first cold start that appears it's how the bike was responding everyday:(:(:( :

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97WFl1E_1Go"]YouTube - ‪demarrage fz8‬‏[/ame]

Now, with the cluth activated it's solved!!

Regards,

Tiago
 

Rgraphic

New member
Even with holding the clutch i had a hard time starting today. I'll post a video or audio at some point. I would describe it as sounding flooded.
 

gearjunky13

New member
It could also be the oil your running is causing the cluch to grab more or its posible your cluch is not ajusted properly but im just throwing that out there, but try this next time it dose it, put it in first and with the cluch out push it fowerd till so you kinda turn over the engine slightly, then pull thue cluch in and make sher its freely moving put it back in neutral and see if it starts better if it dose its most likely the cluch is slightly holding the engine back and needed to be broken loose, if not well just go to the dealer and see if a yamaha has figered somthing out
 

Rgraphic

New member
Shifting into first and back to neutral before starting and it took one push. Even after sitting cold for a few days.
 

tiagovsilva

New member
Shifting into first and back to neutral before starting and it took one push. Even after sitting cold for a few days.

Same here.:)

I left it on neutral, and the next day morning, put in first and holding the clutch move the bike backwards and forwards.. just an inches. (At this point, when moving the bike, you're realise how strong is the clutch drag.. the oil is to thick)...
With the engine working for 10 minutes if you test the clutch drag.. it's more easier to pull/push the bike (on first with the clutch on). Oil is thinner due to temperature.

Then, i release the clutch, turn the key, hold the clutch during the start operation (start button).. and it starts easier.. without any problems.

This is on a daily use..

Maybe the oil is to thick.. I'm using the Yamalube 10w-40.. that is standard on the garage.

One thing that i've noticed, its that most people with this problem have noticed it after 1000... 1500km.. in other words, after the first service and consequent first change of oil.. like me... until the first service (1000km), the cold start was perfect.. After +-1500km the problem appeared.

There are posts on other forums that this bike works better with Castrol Power 1 Racing 4t 10W-40 or 10W-50.. that the clutch will be like a feather and the engine works smoothly..:):)

Anyone have tried this oil?


Regards,

Tiago
 
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Künstler

New member
[lang=de]Hi,..:)

Its me Celal, from Istanbul.
Okey, I have unfortunately same problem!. My bike is only 230km on speedo (already bought 8 days in advance).
I read many of postings,have this problem after 1000 1500km.I have cold start delay from the beginning .
Till now I had, ZZR600, TDM850, VFR750, but none of them with injection.Its my first bike with no choke. .:)

Yes, TDM has other start problems , but my expectations of a 2011-Modern bike more!.

Cold start here in Istanbul is actually little exaggerated, weill just now 24 degrees at night warm:).

My own solution is (As many other bikers do), pull-shalt-not, (Without switching) push this little button until engine started .. (Ooo start ever, then man can hear, not a real sound of exhaust, but a mixer-blender !..:)


Jetz, I'm more afraid that after inspection first! .. Yamaha will own yamalup.I hope one of you can inform us of other better oil varieties (As Castrol???) ..

I wishyou all, nice, dry weekend ...:)


Celal[/lang]
 

MNfz8

New member
i thought i had the same problem for a while, but i noticed that the check engine light flickers a little then will go out. when it goes out it should be good to go :)

just let it warm up.
 

mckshred

New member
Changed original Yamalube 10-40 oil to Catrol GTX 10-40

I was having the same issue where it could sometimes take 2-4 tries to start her. My bike is 2 weeks old and has around 250 miles. Once started, it was definitely noisier until full warm up than previous in-line 4's I've owned.

So last night I changed the oil to Castrol GTX 10-40w. The bike started up immediately multiple times and is much quieter as it warms up. The clutch performance is smoother and improved now as well. Sticking to Castrol GTX moving forward.
 

Crazywb23

New member
Lately I sometimes have trouble starting the bike when it's cold. It sometimes takes 2-3 starts to get it going and it starts a bit rough, then evens out.

Anyone seeing this?

By cold engine Im not even talking as winter cold, just parked in the shed at 15C. Once it's been started the rest of the day its starts pretty easily.

The bike has 3500km on it and have always used premium gas.

When I got my bike tuned and put the k & n filter on it that went away. The plugs are crap, and the filter doesn't let it breath either. In fact the filter was the biggest improvement I saw. Hope this helps
 

Crazywb23

New member
I was having the same issue where it could sometimes take 2-4 tries to start her. My bike is 2 weeks old and has around 250 miles. Once started, it was definitely noisier until full warm up than previous in-line 4's I've owned.

So last night I changed the oil to Castrol GTX 10-40w. The bike started up immediately multiple times and is much quieter as it warms up. The clutch performance is smoother and improved now as well. Sticking to Castrol GTX moving forward.

Was that the conventional for cars or bikes??
 
H

Hoover

Guest
I was having the same issue where it could sometimes take 2-4 tries to start her. My bike is 2 weeks old and has around 250 miles. Once started, it was definitely noisier until full warm up than previous in-line 4's I've owned.

So last night I changed the oil to Castrol GTX 10-40w. The bike started up immediately multiple times and is much quieter as it warms up. The clutch performance is smoother and improved now as well. Sticking to Castrol GTX moving forward.


I hope you are using cycle oil. Regular car oil will F up your clutch pack in a hurry.
Automoblie oil is not designed for motorcycles with wet clutches.
 

mckshred

New member
yes - motorcycle version of castrol.


Though I ran regular castrol gtx in my Seca 750 for 48,000 miles without ever having a clutch issue. What's the difference? Both are wet clutches? Please enlighten me. Thanks.
 
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matt73

New member
I was told by a Yamaha mechanic that I should not use the throttle when starting this bike. It wont start and you need to turn it off and let it re calibrate then try again. I guess it has something to do with the electronic ignition and throttle sensor.
I have 5000km's on mine now with no starting issues that I'm overly concerned about.
 

G Chase

Pillion
Mine acts the same way.

Mine acts the same way. Usually starts ok but is rough under 2,000 rpm till well warmed up. BUT... Never know when I'm going to be embarrassed by hard/long starting 'syndrome'. People actually look over as if there is something wrong with the bike. Almost always starts fine when warmed up though. Dealer says all is normal and attributes the occasional hard starting to a lean running engine in general. Just one of the idiosyncrasy's that bug me about the FZ8. I'll learn to live w/it. Love the bike just the same... Perfect machine for me.
 

ShortstackRN

New member
As with most I had the same problem with mine not starting as "quickly" as I thought it should. Especially when I tried it at the same time as my CBR. Had some service work done 2 months ago and had them pull out the stock DENSO plugs and put in the same twin tip NGK's that the R-1 has in it. I have noticed a difference in the way it starts up.
 

mckshred

New member
Engine Oil and Additives

Curious, does anyone use any engine oil additives? Special oil? I know this topic has been discussed somewhat but I had to add my 2 cents.

Was speaking with the Yamaha mech and he turned me onto an oil blend called Motorex. He advised the synthetic, but they have both synth and non-synth.

I used a product BG Engine Performance Concentrate at each oil change on my old in-line 4 Seca and it improved hp and pickup immediately (over an oil/filter only change). Engine seemed to run smoother as well. Never had any problems from using it. Anyone else ever use this stuff or something else:confused:?
 

crspangenberg

New member
I have had that issue too but I have noticed that if you try to start it right away after it dies its worse, I found that if you wait for the fuel pump to stop pressurizing then it fires right up. I have only had it do it to me 2 or 3 times and that has fixed it.

Just throwing in my :2cents:
 

FZER

Avid Rider
i ALWAYS start my bike in neutral WITH the clutch pulled in as i've been around bikes for so long i've seen bad things happen like faulty neutral lights and snapped clutch cables that have left pricey bikes laying on their side while starting.

if it helps i've never had a starting issue no matter how cold the outside weather has been. remember, wisconsin riders are numb (dumb?) and ride when it's still snowing. no issues ever so i can attest to the clutch grabbing possibilitys.

Extremely good idea. You never know....
 

GarryM

New member
I have over 7000km on my bike now and I've never had any cold start problems, until this weekend. I always wait till the tacho does it's test sweep and the fuel pump finishes pressurizing the fuel line before I hit the starter button. I never turn the throttle while starting it and it fires up pretty quickly.

The last 3 cold starts the engine started with minimal cranking but stopped running as soon as I released the starter button. Doesn't matter how many times I tried to start it or how long I held the starter button the engine stopped running when I released the starter. I tried turning the ignition key on and off and it's started up as normal. After the engine was running it started as normal for the rest of the day. I tried letting it sit for for 4 hours to cool down and it started normally.

Next time I start it from cold I'll try pulling the clutch in first and see what happens though it doesn't seem like an oil issue to me. I'm going to report it to Yamaha to see what they say.
 
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