Best $31.98 I've spent on bike parts

lothodon

lothodon

Super Moderator


came on a slow boat from china (ok, plane) but they look amazing (to me of course).

only the fronts done today, will snap a pic of the rear tomorrow.

close up...

 
Last edited:
D

Deleted member 438

Guest
Those are some of the best looking lights I've seen on our bike. Were they a direct fit or did you have to use those adapter plates?
 
lothodon

lothodon

Super Moderator
if you take a look a the close up you'll see i was able to use a standard flat washer that fit the "round" part of the factory mount really well. it's an american sized washer and used the next smaller on the inside. spray bombed the outer washer black and it looks pretty good for a "free" install kit.

i'll be using the adapter plates that came with the r&g tail for the rear signals today. will post pics.
 
lothodon

lothodon

Super Moderator
i am really. if you look head on they are VERY bright and actually hurt my eyes. they blink much faster than "normal" of course as i didn't add a load resistor and don't want to. IF i could get the gallery upload to take i'd post the back shot. working...



apparently the image uploader craps out if your originals are too big. who knew.
 
D

Deleted member 438

Guest
What's involved in removing the fronts? I was trying to figure out what it's going to take to swap 'em today and it seems like it's going to be a PITA.
 
lothodon

lothodon

Super Moderator
i actually found the front to be a LOT easier than the rears due to those asinine plastic "pins" that you cannot get out from the underside of the rear tail.

pull the fly screen (if you have one) the small cover on top and the side panels. the side panels are held on with two screws and hold the signals. you don't have to remove the headlight or instrument panel but i did pull the top two screws for the headlight. it will pull away from the bike enough to get at the wiring.

front wiring is not the same as the back, well, the connectors anyway. you'll be able to mount the signals to the plastic panels without having them installed on the bike which makes things a LOT easier.
 
hypo

hypo

New member
yeah, who comes up with the 3000 different types of electrical connectors on these bikes??? come ON! the first thing I did when I put in my tail tidy and put on different rear signals was cut the wiring and put my own regular bullet connectors on there so that I could swap things in and out with stuff that usually comes with turn signal wires.

ie:

 
lothodon

lothodon

Super Moderator
i've yet to find a tidy tail for an international bike that worked right out of the box with the us plates. my plate went through hell on my first r1 that was totaled so a few extra holes sure won't hurt it. it's been flattened in many many places to get it back to straight (enough).
 
R

rnvanquish

New member
lothodon said:
i actually found the front to be a LOT easier than the rears due to those asinine plastic "pins" that you cannot get out from the underside of the rear tail.
Click to expand...

I saw this and just had to make an account and comment. Lothodon, those "asinine" plastic pins are called "push-pins". Get a tool with some sort of point on the end and push in on the tiny round center and they'll pop right out. Easy as pie!
 
lothodon

lothodon

Super Moderator
that's only if you can get to the backside of them. there are two on the very rear of the bike under the taillight that you cannot get to from inside. still hate em.
 
R

rnvanquish

New member
Ahhh for sure. I believe I know the two you're talking about. I thought you meant the 6-8 or so that line the underside of the tail facing the rear tire. My bad!
 
lothodon

lothodon

Super Moderator
i think there are 8 total on the under fender. the two back one's are near impossible but i did find that you can just flex the entire tail assembly once the other 6 are out to get the tail off, then pop the remaining 2 afterward. it's that or there are 6 total and the other 4 are not too bad.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top