Tips for adjusting your shocks.

RoadKill

New member
This was in the manual that came with my Penske shock, i thought it was pretty helpful.

Street Tuning: Symptoms and Suggestions

⦁ The simplest way to adjust in your suspension is to find a loop approximately 5 miles long where you can create multiple situations, sweeping corners, tight or braking corners, harsh bumps. It is also ideal for you to find a quick or easy stopping place (fuel station, bank, food store) Ride on the factory pre-settings, make changes, evaluate changes and continue and repeat in order to dial in “your” ideal setting.

⦁ Write down your original or current best setting. Then change only one adjustment at a time. Be patient, go back to your original settings if you get lost.

⦁ Bring your tools to adjust, also bring a flashlight to see shaft travel of the shock.

Harsh over bumps: If shaft travel is not within 1/8” from bottom (Black) bump rubber:
⦁ Go softer with compression, 2 to 4 clicks at a time (counter clockwise), if better continue going softer.
⦁ Reduce rear spring preload (increase sag) -1 turn at a time on spring perch.
⦁ Change to a softer spring rate.

Harsh over bumps: If shaft travel is clearly into the bottom (Black) bump rubber:
⦁ Too soft on compression can bring about a harsh feeling by allowing too much shock travel and compressing the bump rubber. Go Stiffer with compression, 2 to 4 clicks at a time (clockwise), if better continue going stiffer.
⦁ Increase rear spring preload (reduce sag) + 1 turn at a time on spring perch.
⦁ Change to a stiffer spring rate.

Wallowing exiting corner:
⦁ Stiffen compression, 2 clicks at a time. (clockwise)
⦁ Increase rear spring Preload (reduce sag). 1 turn
⦁ Slow down rebound, 2 clicks at a time (clockwise).
⦁ Change to a stiffer spring rate.

Slow turn-in:
⦁ Raise fork legs in triple clamps – More fork tube sticking out of top of triple clamps.
3mm-5mm per change
⦁ Increase rear eyelet length, 1/2 to 1 turn at a time. – If applicable
*Cannot exceed 12mm of thread exposed.
⦁ Soften fork compression
⦁ Reduce fork Preload (Increase sag)
⦁ Speed-up rear rebound. Counter Clockwise or (-)

Mid corner push - front:
1. Stiffen rear compression
2. Slow down fork rebound
 
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Trooper

New member
unfortunately, the vast majority of the "remedies" listed are not available because of the limitations on the stock shocks.
 

cxa0897

New member
Gotta agree with trooper on this one. Good read, but we are limited to "try raising or lowering the preload and see if it gets any better". The rear suspension is probably the biggest short coming on the whole bike
 

pigdog

New member
i agree with both of you. there's only so much adjustment & its not enough. plan on upgrading or go for a ride with tools & make your suspension a little better.
 

Levek

New member
Rear wheel chatter from a high rev downshift... I know damping in the stock shock is a few notches above pathetic but would increasing the preload make it worse, better?
 

Trooper

New member
Rear wheel chatter from a high rev downshift... I know damping in the stock shock is a few notches above pathetic but would increasing the preload make it worse, better?

The stock shocks have very little to no rebound dampening. Increasing the prelaod would indeed put more load on the spring and cause it to "kick" more.

The goal of a rebound adjuster is to slow down the springs memory so to speak. Since the rebound is too fast, it is causing chatter.
 
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NoNine4me

New member
This was in the manual that came with my Penske shock, i thought it was pretty helpful.

Street Tuning: Symptoms and Suggestions

⦁ The simplest way to adjust in your suspension is to find a loop approximately 5 miles long where you can create multiple situations, sweeping corners, tight or braking corners, harsh bumps. It is also ideal for you to find a quick or easy stopping place (fuel station, bank, food store) Ride on the factory pre-settings, make changes, evaluate changes and continue and repeat in order to dial in “your” ideal setting.

⦁ Write down your original or current best setting. Then change only one adjustment at a time. Be patient, go back to your original settings if you get lost.

⦁ Bring your tools to adjust, also bring a flashlight to see shaft travel of the shock.

Harsh over bumps: If shaft travel is not within 1/8” from bottom (Black) bump rubber:
⦁ Go softer with compression, 2 to 4 clicks at a time (counter clockwise), if better continue going softer.
⦁ Reduce rear spring preload (increase sag) -1 turn at a time on spring perch.
⦁ Change to a softer spring rate.

Harsh over bumps: If shaft travel is clearly into the bottom (Black) bump rubber:
⦁ Too soft on compression can bring about a harsh feeling by allowing too much shock travel and compressing the bump rubber. Go Stiffer with compression, 2 to 4 clicks at a time (clockwise), if better continue going stiffer.
⦁ Increase rear spring preload (reduce sag) + 1 turn at a time on spring perch.
⦁ Change to a stiffer spring rate.

Wallowing exiting corner:
⦁ Stiffen compression, 2 clicks at a time. (clockwise)
⦁ Increase rear spring Preload (reduce sag). 1 turn
⦁ Slow down rebound, 2 clicks at a time (clockwise).
⦁ Change to a stiffer spring rate.

Slow turn-in:
⦁ Raise fork legs in triple clamps – More fork tube sticking out of top of triple clamps.
3mm-5mm per change
⦁ Increase rear eyelet length, 1/2 to 1 turn at a time. – If applicable
*Cannot exceed 12mm of thread exposed.
⦁ Soften fork compression
⦁ Reduce fork Preload (Increase sag)
⦁ Speed-up rear rebound. Counter Clockwise or (-)

Mid corner push - front:
1. Stiffen rear compression
2. Slow down fork rebound
This is all good baseline stuff, but be careful about raising and lowering the forks to cure "problems". This can have serious, unintended consequences to stability. I've done a lot of setup on my bike with respect to tire pressure and ride height/shock preload and can say that this bike can be set up to handle superbly for just about any rider without moving the forks up/down.

If the shock is adjusted correctly for sag/ride height (most shocks don't have a ride height adjuster but if the spring rate is correct this is not necessary), then the front end will take care of itself within the normal weight range. Replacement springs for the forks and proper setup for sag should be all that are needed to correct most issues with the front end.

Like any well-designed chassis the FZ8 responds noticeably to very small changes in suspension setup. But keep in mind the shock that comes with the bike is quite soft and won't really be up to aggressive sport riding and offers little real adjustability. Even the 2013's range of damping is on the soft side. The fork springs are adequate but are going to be too soft for heavier riders, say, over 185 lbs., for hard riding.

The baseline ride height for the FZ8 is 30mm for the rear. If you can get that set, with a buddy to help you, and set the tire pressure correctly, you will have that bike working pretty well.

An aftermarket shock like the Ohlins will do wonders.

Also, this bike doesn't handle well with lowered tire pressures. Even going to 34 psi in the front will make it reluctant to turn (street pressures, not track).

The FZ8 has a great, stable chassis but like any thoroughbred, it has to be setup carefully.
 

alexk

Weekend Rider
Question:

Bike: 2013 FZ8
Rider: 6'5" 240lbs geared
Rear Sag: 40mm (highest preload)
Front Sag:40mm (still has some to go)

Is it more important to balance the f/r sag or to set each as close to 30 as possible?

I'm finding the rear of the bike a little squirrely in corners, with the rear kicking out from me mid-corner or bucking slightly as I begin to apply throttle. Other than that, it handles better than I can ride.

//Also, the 2013 has adjustable rebound in the rear as well as compression/rebound in the front. I haven't adjusted either.
 

NoNine4me

New member
Question:

Bike: 2013 FZ8
Rider: 6'5" 240lbs geared
Rear Sag: 40mm (highest preload)
Front Sag:40mm (still has some to go)

Is it more important to balance the f/r sag or to set each as close to 30 as possible?

I'm finding the rear of the bike a little squirrely in corners, with the rear kicking out from me mid-corner or bucking slightly as I begin to apply throttle. Other than that, it handles better than I can ride.

//Also, the 2013 has adjustable rebound in the rear as well as compression/rebound in the front. I haven't adjusted either.
Probably better to keep them balanced. If you crank the rear up it might start to steer a little too quickly. So fork springs would be my next recommendation, to get your forks adjustable to the range needed. Then try to step up the rear to get 30mm on each end. That will help but the lack of damping in the shock will still make things a little interesting. Also with respect to tire pressure make sure you've got 36 up front. Rear can run 36-42 depending on conditions. Yamaha says 36/42 under all conditions to be on the extra safe side as far as road hazards and whatnot. Whenever you change anything use caution.
 
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Trooper

New member
I aim for 30mm-35mm in the rear, and 5mm-7mm more in the front. The bike will handle turns alot better without having oversteer.
 
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