Shifter feeling notchy

RoadKill

RoadKill

New member
Has anyone had this problem? I have 7k miles on my bike and about 800 miles ago the shifter started feeling like it had more resistance (notchy). I keep the clutch adjusted with 10mm free play like I always have and I just changed the oil to the same oil I have used since I got the bike brand new. Mobil One racing 4t syn.

Yet the transmission just doesn't feel like it did when it was new.
Also I could hold in the clutch and go to N then back to first without rolling or letting the clutch out a tiny bit and it would go back in to first.
 
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bren

Guest
i think you are supposed to change the oil type when you get more kms on it mate..

i could be wrong though- im not much of a mechanic..
 
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bren

Guest
RoadKill said:
hmm ive had about 9 different bikes and never had a problem with mobile one before.
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Like I said mate, no mechanic here.. Just read about ppl changing the grades of oil at various km/mile intervals..

Maybe do a google search on it. Lol
 
AlCab

AlCab

New member
I think Bren is referring to the fact that some people switch from regular to synthetic oil at some point after break in but I see you have been using synthetic from the start.

I have less than 400 miles on mine so I am no help. I did notice that the shifting has improved noticeably compared to when it was brand new.

I don't know what would be causing your shifting to become notchy suddenly. Also, I didn't really understand what you were trying to say in your second paragraph:

"Also I could hold in the clutch and go to N then back to first without rolling or letting the clutch out a tiny bit and it would go back in to first. "

Could you maybe say it another way??
 
RyanSterling

RyanSterling

Suspension Mod Evangelist
IS it possible your clutch needs adjustment? Perhaps trying clutchless shifting and see if is still feels notchy. I would suggest that maybe your cable has stretched a bit and you are no longer getting as much pull as you were before. How far out is your lever when your clutch starts to engage?
 
AlCab

AlCab

New member
RyanSterling said:
IS it possible your clutch needs adjustment? Perhaps trying clutchless shifting and see if is still feels notchy. I would suggest that maybe your cable has stretched a bit and you are no longer getting as much pull as you were before. How far out is your lever when your clutch starts to engage?
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Or, did the shifter connecting rod work itself lose maybe?
 
RyanSterling

RyanSterling

Suspension Mod Evangelist
I did the same on my Bonnie. Switched over to the Barnett cause stockers kept slipping at speed after doing some engine work. My clutch hand hates it in traffic so I actually mixed in 1 or 2 stock springs. But corner exit roll ons are a ton more fun now :) so the extra lever effort is worth it to me.

I can measure my stock length if you like though I do have rearsets so mine might be different. I would think if it wants to pop back in to first gear that would mean that the rod adjustment is now too long. Thus pushing the shifter down slightly. Perhaps tighten it a bit and see if there is a difference.
 
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mrthompson

New member
How does the shifting feel with the bike off? Still hard and rough if do you probably looking at trans problems. If smooth and easy I would look into the clutch. Also take some of the slack out of the clutch cable adjustment. That will give you more release of the clutch. Because to me it sounds like the clutch if not fully disengaged.
 
AlCab

AlCab

New member
RoadKill said:
RyanSterling:


Alcab that sounds like a possibility how would i check that?
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Look at the connecting rod between the shift lever and the gearbox. There are two nuts on each end that tighten against each other. Make sure they have not come loose. This is also how you adjust the angle of the shift lever to your liking.
 
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DJK1505

Guest
The neutral to first is the shift fork. Thats very common on bikes, the fork will sit kinda in the middle and will not allow you to go into first or second until you roll the assembly.

As for the trans feeling diff, you are wearing it in. Diff weights and vis of oils will make it feel a bit different. How much riding the clutch have you done? Your shift lever really should not make a diff in the way the trans feels, only the way you feel shifting. Like the lever is too high or too low. I would readjust my clutch, and ride the hell out of it. These trans are pretty indistructable, not saying problems will not happen, but they are few and far between.

What did the oil you took out look like? Was there any sparkles in it? Like metal shavings? With your clutch in and you rolling is it more difficult to get it to go into gear? Does it shift much harder? Those are two signs your clutch pack is wearing down.

DJ
 
RoadKill

RoadKill

New member
Thanks for the suggestions. As far as adjustment goes i will say once again that 10-15mm free play is the spec outlined in the manual for the clutch handle and i keep it there. i think its needed tightening about 5 times since i got it.

Rolling forward/backward after the shifter refuses to go back into first from N will easily let the trans drop back into first.

I have also noticed that sometimes things seem pretty smooth. i hope i am just being to picky about it.

I am going out to the garage and checking the bolts and other stuff.

So i am wondering, i have my 8K service coming up. Would you guys just take it in to the stealership and have them check everything out? or would you do that service yourselves? I havent changed my spark plugs before and i do not know how to lube the throttle cables on this bike.
 
RyanSterling

RyanSterling

Suspension Mod Evangelist
RoadKill said:
Thanks for the suggestions. As far as adjustment goes i will say once again that 10-15mm free play is the spec outlined in the manual for the clutch handle and i keep it there. i think its needed tightening about 5 times since i got it.

Rolling forward/backward after the shifter refuses to go back into first from N will easily let the trans drop back into first.

I have also noticed that sometimes things seem pretty smooth. i hope i am just being to picky about it.

I am going out to the garage and checking the bolts and other stuff.

So i am wondering, i have my 8K service coming up. Would you guys just take it in to the stealership and have them check everything out? or would you do that service yourselves? I havent changed my spark plugs before and i do not know how to lube the throttle cables on this bike.
Click to expand...

I use a handy little tool I got from cycle gear I think. It slips over your cables and then you use spray lube to force pressurized lubricant into the cable. Works really well, just make sure it is tight before pulling the trigger or it can make a mess. Plugs look like they wouldn't be too bad if you pull the airbox out first.
 
RoadKill

RoadKill

New member
RyanSterling said:
I use a handy little tool I got from cycle gear I think. It slips over your cables and then you use spray lube to force pressurized lubricant into the cable. Works really well, just make sure it is tight before pulling the trigger or it can make a mess. Plugs look like they wouldn't be too bad if you pull the airbox out first.
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yeah i got that too. i used it on my clutch cable, just not sure how where to attach to the throttle cable and how the throttle cables come off.

I put the bike on the pitbull rear-stand and pulled in the clutch and then put it in first gear. the rear wheel doesnt start moving until i release the clutch a few millimeters maybe 10 or so. so i think the clutch is adjusted fine. I will just keep an eye on it i guess. This may sound funny but in the 80's i had a Honda Nighthawk 750 and nothing has ever shifted as smooth as that bike did.
 
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DJK1505

Guest
Drop your radiator, dont have to take the hoses off, just gives you a little extra room. Then a 3" extension, and sparkplug socket and you are good. Easy to change the plugs.

Cables are very easy to lube, save the money and do it yourself. Nothing major on the 8K check.
 
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