Rusted Chain...

[FZ8Panda]

So I noticed the other day that my chain has rusted... Looks like just surface rust but not quite sure. I'm guessing I didn't lube it properly after washing and/or riding in wet conditions. My question is, what is the best way to remedy this? Some sort of wire brush with a chain cleaner? I rather not have a chain break while riding.

 

[tzortn]

I agree that it looks like surface rust. I would try to just wipe it down with a good cleaner then follow it with chain lubricant. I use a plastic brush to clean my chain because I am afraid of a wire brush damaging an o-ring. It might be unfounded but using a plastic brush can't hurt. A plastic brush not as aggressive but a good degreaser helps make chain cleaning manageable.

 

[Gus]

I agree that it looks like surface rust. I would try to just wipe it down with a good cleaner then follow it with chain lubricant. I use a plastic brush to clean my chain because I am afraid of a wire brush damaging an o-ring. It might be unfounded but using a plastic brush can't hurt. A plastic brush not as aggressive but a good degreaser helps make chain cleaning manageable.

Agreed. Just get a nice cotton towel with some good chain lube and keep wiping until it starts coming off. It doesn't look major as long as you get it off as soon as you can. Then make sure you lube it really well afterwards.

Got this from another website...

"there are a couple of ways to check to see if the chain is merely surface rust or the chain is in need of being replaced.

find a way to lift the rear tire off the ground, center stand or side stand with bike leaned over... spin the tire and watch the chain as it gones on and comes off the sprockets to see if there is any popping of the links. if there is a popping or kinking appearance, this could be a couple of things... lack of lubrication or the chain is stretched. if you have access to some chain lub, lub the chain and continue to spin to see if the lub frees up the links to where they quit popping / kinking. if they quit, it's probably merely surface rust from the last washing of the bike and the chain was not lub'd well following.

another indicator is to look at the chain tensioners on the back of the swing arm. if the tensioners appear to be to where they can not apply more tension on the chain, the chain is probably stretched to close to it's limit. some times if the chain seems to roll smoothly (from first point), you might be able to merely remove a link and re-adjust the tension.

also, try moving the chain side to side to see how much free play there is. there shouldn't be much side play if the chain is in decent condition.

also look at the sprockets to see if there is any cupping in the teeth on the side that would get the power force of the chain.

see if you can determine whether the chain is a standard type chain or an o-ring style. the o-ring style chain would be highly unlikely to have internal damage from rust and merely cosmetic appearance."

 

[Gus]

Also, I am reading in some post that you can use WD-40 and a toothbrush to loosen up the rust. When you are done cleaning the rust, make sure the chain is lubed really well(the whole chain) to prevent it from rusting again.

 

[Woody146]

Brake cleaner on a towel...sandwhich towel over back sprocket(while holding firmly) and spin wheel..(rear wheel must be off ground) spin until clean..adding brake cleaner to towel only..extremely corrosive..then with another towl...do same thing with chain wax/lube available online or at local bike shop..this will protect from it happening again..do both steps every 3-4 months to ensure a nice clean chain! ( this is what they do at good tire shops when you get new tires)

 

[RD GUY]

I would not use brakeclean,read the can "protect rubber surfaces" and not so good on o-ring chains ,I only use mineral spirits or varsol wipe dry ,if you use compresed air be gentle as you can damage O-rings,then ride bike to warm chain up then lube up,i"ve used chain wax for years with great results

 

[RoadKill]

use a rag and some kerosene to clean it, then use chain wax/lube. Most of the Wax/lubes have rust inhibitors. Using a brush is not recommended because you could damage the o-rings and you don't want anything that is a degreaser getting on your o-ring grease. Your links will start to seize.

 

[pajkrubi]

I second the rag with kerosene on it. If you have any spots where the rust is a little heavier soak some 0000 steel wool in kerosene and gently rub the rusted area. 0000 steel wool is VERY fine and is basically the equivalent of a scotchbrite pad. You can use it on blued guns without harming the bluing it's that fine.

Also you should be lubing your chain after EVERY wash or ride in the rain. Even during dry weather riding I lube mine every 500 miles or so which for me is about a week because mine is my daily driver during the warm season and my commute is a hair over 70 miles a day. About evey third lube or so I give it a good wipedown with a rag soaked in kerosene to clean off the older gunk. Also it's best to lube your chain when it's warm (like right after a ride) and then put it up so it can cool, soak in and thicken up to a good wax. If you lube it and go out for a ride right away it's going to sling most of it off.

 

[FZ8Panda]

Thanks fellas. I really need a rear stand. It's a PITA without it especially in the brutal cold.

 

[mikefz8]

Thanks fellas. I really need a rear stand. It's a PITA without it especially in the brutal cold.

My solution for a rear stand is 2 jack stands and a large diameter piece of rebar through the rear axle. Solution is not a fancy one, but it is very functional. I should take a picture