Rpms hanging between shifts

[04wrxwagon]

I tried to search for this but had no results. I've noticed a lot lately when I'm riding and shifting at a slower pace, the rpms will stick for a second or two when I pull the clutch in. Is this common? I'm used to older carbureted bikes. It gets annoying sometimes cause it prevents me from shifting when I want to. It almost feels like I've pulled the clutch in, but the plates are sticking.

 

[dart1963]

IF anything, rev matching will make it shift easier, not sure why it would make it harder to shift.

Check the clutch cable adjustment, make sure it has just a little slack. Make sure throttle isn't sticking, should snap right off when you release it.

 

[04wrxwagon]

Yeah throttles fine. Clutch has some slack. The bikes only got 1500 miles. When the clutch is fully pulled in, the bike seems to stay in gear and prevents me from shifting. If I hit the throttle at the same time it "sticks" the bike lurches forward and then it finally goes into a nuetral state.

 

[Woody146]

Change your oil to full synthetic...amsoil or Mobil 1 4t or royal purple max cycle

Sounds like it just needs some better oil

 

[myklobe]

Mine has done that for the first 3000 miles. It seems that whatever assembly lube they use causes the clutch to be sticky and not release for a second after engaging it, once then oil starts to get a little dirty. I just hit 3000 miles and changed my oil again for 3rd time and it disengages the clutch perfectly again. For me, it was just the oil gunk from all the assembly lube or whatever nasty they put in at the factory. Also, I've adjusted the slack in and out on the clutch to find the happy spot.

I'd personally say change the oil with some good oil (I use Mobil 1 4T Synthetic) and see what that does.

Good Luck!

 

[04wrxwagon]

Yeah I just put yamalube full syn. And..not sure if I cleaned my pan enough but there were definitely a few glimpses of metal I caught. Not sure if this is due to break in or what? The oil was dark, I'm wondering if the shop even changed it since it hit the break in mark.

 

[Woody146]

I purposefully buy a little more oil than I need..measure out the 3100 ml and then I use the rest to flush out what is left in the bike before I put in the measured oil.....it always comes out black and then starts to become clearer..this last oil change was the first time I did that (measure and flush...bike seems very happy after) I used amsoil

 

[Umyaya]

I purposefully buy a little more oil than I need..measure out the 3100 ml and then I use the rest to flush out what is left in the bike before I put in the measured oil.....it always comes out black and then starts to become clearer..this last oil change was the first time I did that (measure and flush...bike seems very happy after) I used amsoil

How many miles do you guys get before cleaning k and n air filter?

 

[Woody146]

How many miles do you guys get before cleaning k and n air filter?

Air filter? Haven't cleaned it yet...rode 5 k with stock..then went to hi flo (same as stock..) then k&n when I did the last of my mods (3 months...2k miles or so)


So..that is on my list of todos...I just hate the airbox screws

I would think when you change oil though? So 3-5 k

From k&n:

4. How often do I need to clean my K&N air filter?

If you have not experienced a decrease in mileage or engine performance, chances are your filter is fine and does not yet need cleaning. To be more specific, the filter does not require cleaning if you can still see the wire screen on the entire air filter regardless of how dirty it may appear. When the screen is no longer visible some place on the filter, it is time to clean it. When used in normal paved road, street or highway conditions, our replacement air filters that fit in the factory air box should require cleaning every 50,000 miles and our large conical filters on an intake system should require cleaning every 100,000 miles. When used in dusty or off-road environments, our filters will require cleaning more often. We recommend that you visually inspect your filter once every 25,000 miles to determine if the screen is still visible.

 

[Umyaya]

Maybe I won't clean it when I do my oil next week. I checked it and it was kind of dirty but I still could see a lot of red. I also did the airbox mod so more filter is used. Also. I have been scraping my boots on corners. ... is it my riding position or am I getting low? I realize scraping peg on a fz8 is crazy but boots? Anyone else have this. I scraped them on this long sweeper and it was really scary because I was hauling...

Air filter? Haven't cleaned it yet...rode 5 k with stock..then went to hi flo (same as stock..) then k&n when I did the last of my mods (3 months...2k miles or so)


So..that is on my list of todos...I just hate the airbox screws

I would think when you change oil though? So 3-5 k

From k&n:

4. How often do I need to clean my K&N air filter?

If you have not experienced a decrease in mileage or engine performance, chances are your filter is fine and does not yet need cleaning. To be more specific, the filter does not require cleaning if you can still see the wire screen on the entire air filter regardless of how dirty it may appear. When the screen is no longer visible some place on the filter, it is time to clean it. When used in normal paved road, street or highway conditions, our replacement air filters that fit in the factory air box should require cleaning every 50,000 miles and our large conical filters on an intake system should require cleaning every 100,000 miles. When used in dusty or off-road environments, our filters will require cleaning more often. We recommend that you visually inspect your filter once every 25,000 miles to determine if the screen is still visible.

 

[Woody146]

Maybe I won't clean it when I do my oil next week. I checked it and it was kind of dirty but I still could see a lot of red. I also did the airbox mod so more filter is used. Also. I have been scraping my boots on corners. ... is it my riding position or am I getting low? I realize scraping peg on a fz8 is crazy but boots? Anyone else have this. I scraped them on this long sweeper and it was really scary because I was hauling...

Both my dainese riding boots and my work boots! Foot position on the rearset matter everything in this..start riding with the ball of your foot on the rearset..not the middle of the foot..and when not shifting..you can be almost,on your toes.. Again..rearsets also..stocks ar veryyyy low..my Satos are on the lowest setting and they are still much higher

 

[618FZ8]

Its all positioning like woody said. We don't have our legs swept back and if your not on your toes in a deep corner your boots will max out your lean WAY before the bike will. Also normal ol' tennis shoes will help too.