Front wheel and bearings removal

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calscrazy

Guest
I apologize ahead of time for the lack of pictures. I didn't think about it until after the fact.
I bent my front rim the other day and in order for them to repair it it requires i strip it down. Cost of repair is $125 vs a new one $475.
www.mywheelrepair.com

Step 1: front wheel removal- use the directions in the owner's manual or yamaha's website has them on pdf file. I hung my calipers using zipties. That way they are not just hanging there.

Step 2: tire removal- i use the tire machine at work. this you can do however you want.

Step 3: rotor removal- remove the rotors using a 6mm hex. be cautious as they have loc-tite on them. i used my power drill to remove the five bolts.

Step 4: seal removal- because i was replacing them and the bearings i was not kind on them. be aware they are a tight fit. i just tapped mine out with a thin tiny flat head not really caring if i tore them up.

Step 5: bearing removal. the bearings i tapped out with a punch. i started on one side and tapped it a little down with a large punch to get room to fit a small punch between the spacer and lower bearing. using a hammer and punch i knocked the lower bearing out. TAKE YOUR TIME!! the last thing you want to do is get the bearing bound up in there by hammering on one side of the bearing. TAP BOTH SIDES EQUALLY!! once the first bearing is out i pulled out the spacer, flipped the wheel and repeated the process for the other side.

now your wheel is ready to be sent out for repair. my local dealer got me both bearings and both seals in a kit for $27.

i will post up the installation directions after i get my rim back.

fz8 wheel pictures by calscrazy - Photobucket

pics 3&4 inside the wheel goes fork spacer/seal/bearing/bearing spacer/bearing/seal/ fork seal.
 
lothodon

lothodon

Super Moderator
first off how the heck did you bend it? second, do you trust a "rebuilt" rim at um...highway speeeds? obviously you do but how do they "un" bend it? i thought they were cast.
 
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calscrazy

Guest
i pulled out from behind a truck to go around him. as i was pulling to go around him i hit a pavestone in the road. mini tank slapper...knocked the wind out of me for a sec.

first they steam clean the heck out of the rim. then they check for any other cracks,etc. then they check the trueness, run-out, integrity, etc. after that they use heat and applied pressure (big fancy scientific machine not some joe blow with a torch and pliers) to get it within .000"-.004" T.I.R. after that its prep, paint and done!

yes i trust it because i have used once before abour 4 yrs ago. i also know of three other guys who have used and had no problems.

if you were to bend/scratch/break the rim on your car they would use the same thing. we do it everyday at my dealer and have always had good luck.
 
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calscrazy

Guest
i have a friend who races cmra and sent his rims off his brand new 1198 to be checked to get them .000" all the way around. almost all factories claim .008" is good.

if anyone has any questions feel free to ask and i will help or point you in the best direction i can.
 
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Deleted member 438

Guest
Hey calscrazy,
Would you be able to get me the dimensions of the stock wheel bearing? I'm doing an fz1 fork swap and I found that the have different diameter axles. I need to figure out if they run different bearings and spacers or if the models have different wheels altogether.
Thanks
 
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calscrazy

Guest
i will get you some dimensions tonight when i get home.
 
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Deleted member 438

Guest
I got my answer after doing some research online. Fz8 is 17 x 40 x 12 and the Fz1 is 20 x 42 x12. There is a 2mm difference in the OD which means the two bikes have different size wheels.
 
C

calscrazy

Guest
got the rim back today. looks good. they said the T.I.R. was perfect. i will post pics when i get the bearings and seals in from yamaha and start my install process.
 
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calscrazy

Guest
if you dont feel like going to yamaha for some cheap chinese bearings i have some part numbers for you.

seals: skf 563852
napa 563852

bearings: timken p203pp
napa 6203j
skf 6203j
 
C

calscrazy

Guest
got my wheel put back together and on the bike sat.

step 1: when you get your wheel back check it over real well for any issues they may have caused or missed.

step 2: press in the right side bearing first. i say "press" because it is a very tight fit. i have the advantage of a hydraulic press at work. if you elect not to use a press then make sure whatever you use to tap it that you only apply pressure to the outer race and tap it in evenly!! also it will go in all the way to the inner lip of the wheel leaving about a 5mm gap between it and the edge of the wheel.

step 3: flip the wheel over. press in the other side. DO NOT FORGET TO PUT THE SPACER BACK IN!! the spacer should line up with the inner race of the bearings.

step 4: install the seals on each side. i just tapped these in with a mallet. they will fill the 5mm gap from the bearing to the edge of the wheel.

step 5: mount and balance tire.

step 6: reinstall your rotors. i used a little blue loctite. i torqued mine to "T" for tight. NOT "B" FOR BREAK!!

step 7: install the wheel spacers on each side of the seals. the smaller side goes inward.

step 8: place the front wheel into the front forks so the holes line up all the way across.

step 9: slide the axle in and tighten it to 47ft-lbs. then tighten the pinch bolt on the lower fork to 17 ft-lbs.

step 10: place your calipers back on and tighten the caliper bolts to 29ft-lbs.

step 11: place the brake hose bolt and nut back in place and tighten.

step 12: after letting the bike down sit on and compress the front forks. then give the brakes a few quick grabs to ensure everything is working before taking her out for a test ride.

DO NOT GRAB THE BRAKE LEVER WHILE THE CALIPERS ARE OFF!!!! they wil compress together and be a bi*#! to get apart.

hope this helps someone.

thanks to

The Power of Performance for the service manual!
 
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