Factory ECU's

ausfz8

New member
Hey guys,

Some of you may already know and some might not but do you realise that you can save some money with Power Commanders etc. and just use your factory ECU. if you really want a Fuel Controller then go for it but if you want some details on what I have done and what is working for me so far then PM me.

Its like a hidden conspiracy.
 

JSP

Administrator
Why not just post in the thread??? Just yesterday, you were looking at fuel controllers. What changed and what did you do that you no longer feel its needed?
 

ausfz8

New member
Well I talked to an ex Yamaha Head Mechanic.
Who worked on our bikes among others and also has been through all the different ways to get more power out the bikes for racing which we can do but in the long run our engines wont last as long.
Removing the AIS system was a go ahead and do that. Air box mods with high flow filter on our bike no problem. Exhaust mods even Gutting the CAT no problem do that. once you have done your mods, remove the power cable from the battery and touch it to the negative.
This will reset the ECU (Which has enough adjustments in it self) to adjust to accomodate for the mods done.
with the AIS off you can get a better Air/Fuel ratio readin from what the exhaust gasses are actually doing. now as the normal mods and like our bike are stock it should be running leaner.
the ECU will adjust a bit but if more fuel is needed you can adjust that by the CO mode on the Dash. there you can add 5% increments to each cylinder.
 

decooney

New member
ausFZ8,

If you get a chance, check out the fuel mapping table on a PCV. You will notice the +/- of fuel is not a constant fixed value like the CO function offers. The PC changes the % values by overriding and subtracting or adding fuel in micro increments throughout the entire RPM range from 0 to say 13000 rpms. Also, there are changes to timing curve, idle, and more along with other adjustments the PCV unit offers. There is so much adjustability it made my head spin looking at it the first time.
 

ausfz8

New member
ausFZ8,

If you get a chance, check out the fuel mapping table on a PCV. You will notice the +/- of fuel is not a constant fixed value like the CO function offers. The PC changes the % values by overriding and subtracting or adding fuel in micro increments throughout the entire RPM range from 0 to say 13000 rpms. Also, there are changes to timing curve, idle, and more along with other adjustments the PCV unit offers. There is so much adjustability it made my head spin looking at it the first time.

Definately agree with you there. for others that need or want just that bit extra increase across the board and dont want to spend the extra it seems you can gain a bit of oomph for it by playing around till you get it right. would really need to pay for the dyno time so you can see what works and what doesn't however. the timing would be a good one to look at also.
 

ausfz8

New member
I have adjusted mine and from what I can tell so far is that I now have much smoother throttle than before and does feel to go that extra bit better. I will try booking in some Dyno time and do some adjustments through runs and post the results up see what works and what doesn't.
it goes up or down by 1% increments like on a power commander. i have mine upto 8% extra so far and can notice a lot of difference.
will try posting hard evidence soon.
 

kawk2fazer

New member
Anyone know if this mod works on the US model of the FZ8... I tried grounding the red/white wire and ended up blowing the ignition fuse. Tried the (pinkish/orangish)/white with brown splotches and that did nothing. If anyone with a US version (non-CA) has had any luck, please post how you were able to do it.
 

nath180

New member
My '13 has C1, C2, C3 and C4.

Guess this applies to the adjustments suggested on other sites against the R6 values.
 

ausfz8

New member
I too have the 2013 model here in Aus, from what I have been told each C1,C2,C3,C4 is for each cylinder.
I didn't need to ground anything and you can notice that it has taken effect.
 

9 Lives

New member
Anyone know if this mod works on the US model of the FZ8... I tried grounding the red/white wire and ended up blowing the ignition fuse. Tried the (pinkish/orangish)/white with brown splotches and that did nothing. If anyone with a US version (non-CA) has had any luck, please post how you were able to do it.

Just keep shorting/grounding out wires and eventually you will have the "let the smoke out the expensive electrical gadget" mod.
 

RoadKill

New member
what does "remove the power cable from the battery and touch it to the negative." mean exactly? that sounds very vague to me.
 

nath180

New member
what does "remove the power cable from the battery and touch it to the negative." mean exactly? that sounds very vague to me.

Remove the positive (red) cable on the battery and ground it by touching it on the black cable/connection. For what purpose - not sure.
 
Last edited:

nath180

New member
Copy paste from the FZ6 Forum..

Directly From the R6 OEM MANUAL for assembling the bikes

Before changing the settings, check the engine for its characteristics in normal
It is recommended that the settings be checked with an A/F measuring instrument.
Guidelines for setting
• Code C1: At 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or less of engine
This affects the idling stability and the feeling experienced during
Too rich an air-fuel mixture may foul the spark plugs.
• Code C2: At 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or more
speed:
This affects the feeling experienced during engine braking and
throttle opening.
Make a change of 2 to 5% at a time while checking for any
changes.
• Code C3: At 25% to 90% of throttle opening:
This affects the feeling experienced at half throttle opening.
Make a change of 2 to 5% at a time and check for any resulting changes.
• Code C4: At 90% or more of throttle opening:
This affects the feeling experienced at full throttle.
Adjustment to too lean a mixture will lead to engine breakdown.
Adjustment by checking the A/F is recommended.
In particular, to adjust on the leaner side, make a change of 1
time while checking for the result. 12 to 13 is a targeted A/F.

Page 29 of the Book . It's for 03' R6 which is our bike's motor
http://www.cappojim.com/uploads/how_to/fuel_map/04R6GB.pdf

And also here:
How-to: Richen or lean mixture without a power commander! : Yamaha R6 Forum: R6MessageNet : YZF-R6 Forums
 

nath180

New member
Apparently the above is for the YEC ECU's from Yamaha for the supersport\superbike bikes.

Most report that the numbers are just for a smoother idle.
 
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