Engine oil

Paralgin

Avid Rider
Im sure i have seen a thread about this before.
But have a question about what engine oil you guys think i shall use.
I ride in teperatures from 10 degrees celsius up to about 30. Its not getting hotter here in Norway. I saw that yamaha recomends 20W-40.
Im not that into oil, so dont know a thing about it.
 
F

Fazed

Guest
What? A question about oil when there is so much wrong with the suspension??

Seriously though, follow the recommendations in the owners manual and you can't go wrong. Any reputable brand will do.
 
D

DJK1505

Guest
Man, any descent synthetic motorcycle oil will be good.

I have used Rotella, Mobile 1, AMS, and yamalube (outrageously priced at the closest dealer, one time mistake) and all kept the motor turning while I kept beating on it. I have 21 thousand miles now, just cracked the valve cover off, clean as a whistle. I prefer AMS but, Rotella T at Walmart is cheap and convient.

DJ
 

alexk

Weekend Rider
Rotella T6 - incompatible with the FZ8.

I need to de-lurk here.

Shell Rotella T6 is NOT compatible with wet clutch systems like on the FZ8. Yes, it meets JASO MA, but JASO MA directly conflicts with the diesel grades T6 carries.

It might work, but it could cause clutch slip problems, especially over time. Unless you're Marvin the Paranoid Android, this sounds far too much like having both "tea" and "no tea".

From the FZ8 Owner's manual:
In order to prevent clutch slippage (since the engine oil also lubricates the clutch), do not mix any chemical additives. Do not use oils with a diesel specification of “CD” or oils of a higher quality than specified. In addition, do not use oils labeled “ENERGY CONSERVING II” or higher.

Shell reports that Rotella T6 has a number of grades, including
  • CJ-4
  • CH-4
  • CI-4
per API.org, these grades each meet or exceed CD.

I'd love to put that stuff into my bike, as it's stable and cheap... but the friction modifiers in there run counter to the manual-provided requirements. Which is more expensive to you - using a higher-priced oil, or replacing your clutch?
 

Paralgin

Avid Rider
I need to de-lurk here.

Shell Rotella T6 is NOT compatible with wet clutch systems like on the FZ8. Yes, it meets JASO MA, but JASO MA directly conflicts with the diesel grades T6 carries.

It might work, but it could cause clutch slip problems, especially over time. Unless you're Marvin the Paranoid Android, this sounds far too much like having both "tea" and "no tea".

From the FZ8 Owner's manual:
In order to prevent clutch slippage (since the engine oil also lubricates the clutch), do not mix any chemical additives. Do not use oils with a diesel specification of “CD” or oils of a higher quality than specified. In addition, do not use oils labeled “ENERGY CONSERVING II” or higher.

Shell reports that Rotella T6 has a number of grades, including
  • CJ-4
  • CH-4
  • CI-4
per API.org, these grades each meet or exceed CD.

I'd love to put that stuff into my bike, as it's stable and cheap... but the friction modifiers in there run counter to the manual-provided requirements. Which is more expensive to you - using a higher-priced oil, or replacing your clutch?

Thanks for the feedback mate!
 
F

Fazed

Guest
I use a diesel oil that is a higher rating than CD. The oil manufacturers own PDF fact sheet reports that it is good to use in motorcycles with wet clutches. I have been using this oil for years even though it was not recommended in my previous bikes because of having the higher than CD rating and have not had to replace a clutch prematurely, in fact my last bike had 80 000kms on it and the clutch was only slipping as the springs were weak. Saying this it could change on this bike and I could be changing a clutch soon.
 
D

DJK1505

Guest
I need to de-lurk here.

Shell Rotella T6 is NOT compatible with wet clutch systems like on the FZ8. Yes, it meets JASO MA, but JASO MA directly conflicts with the diesel grades T6 carries.

It might work, but it could cause clutch slip problems, especially over time. Unless you're Marvin the Paranoid Android, this sounds far too much like having both "tea" and "no tea".

From the FZ8 Owner's manual:
In order to prevent clutch slippage (since the engine oil also lubricates the clutch), do not mix any chemical additives. Do not use oils with a diesel specification of “CD” or oils of a higher quality than specified. In addition, do not use oils labeled “ENERGY CONSERVING II” or higher.

Shell reports that Rotella T6 has a number of grades, including
  • CJ-4
  • CH-4
  • CI-4
per API.org, these grades each meet or exceed CD.

I'd love to put that stuff into my bike, as it's stable and cheap... but the friction modifiers in there run counter to the manual-provided requirements. Which is more expensive to you - using a higher-priced oil, or replacing your clutch?

Huh, the owners manual also says to follow all road signs, guess you dont speed at all either. I have used this oil in several bikes without a problem. I did not read into the details as much as you have, but I have not had any issues in 21K miles. And a $75 set of clutch plates is pretty cheap to change out every 2 or 4 years. But you are correct, the book says so.

Lets see AMS is about 3 bucks more a quart, about 12 dollars more an oil change, 21K miles= 7 oil changes= $84 in savings. Looks like you saved enough to buy you a new set of clutch plates. LMAO

DJ
 
D

Deleted member 438

Guest
All I have to say is that if it is JASO MA, you're good to go. Rotella T6 is good and cheap.
 

AlCab

New member
I need to de-lurk here.

Shell Rotella T6 is NOT compatible with wet clutch systems like on the FZ8. Yes, it meets JASO MA, but JASO MA directly conflicts with the diesel grades T6 carries.

It might work, but it could cause clutch slip problems, especially over time. Unless you're Marvin the Paranoid Android, this sounds far too much like having both "tea" and "no tea".

From the FZ8 Owner's manual:
In order to prevent clutch slippage (since the engine oil also lubricates the clutch), do not mix any chemical additives. Do not use oils with a diesel specification of “CD” or oils of a higher quality than specified. In addition, do not use oils labeled “ENERGY CONSERVING II” or higher.

Shell reports that Rotella T6 has a number of grades, including
  • CJ-4
  • CH-4
  • CI-4
per API.org, these grades each meet or exceed CD.

I'd love to put that stuff into my bike, as it's stable and cheap... but the friction modifiers in there run counter to the manual-provided requirements. Which is more expensive to you - using a higher-priced oil, or replacing your clutch?

I forwarded your post to shell technical support and below is their response. I just did my first oil change too and am running Rotella T. I may change to motorcycle specific oil at the next oil change. The cost difference is negligible in my case since I am not going to be putting a ton of miles on my bike.

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 7:32 AM
Subject: RE: Rotella T & T6 and JASO MA

Al,

The API C-series diesel engine specifications have absolutely no
bearing on suitability against JASO MA, at least as long as the oil
contain 1.0% sulfated ash or less (many API CI-4+ and earlier oils do
have higher ash content). Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic Oil SAE
5W-40 has been tested to the JASO MA specifications and passes the
requirements. Our position continues to be that Shell Rotella T6
Full Synthetic Oil SAE 5W-40, which meets API SM for gasoline engines
and contains no friction modifiers that affect wet clutch operation,
may be used in motorcycles where the SAE xW-40, API SF through SM and
JASO MA specifications are sufficient.

However, in the specific instance cited where a manufacturer has
excluded diesel oil for use in a bike model, we would recommend that
Shell Rotella oils should not be used. Diesel oils generally are not
"energy conserving" types. I'm not sure why the exclusion has been
made in this case, but again, it has nothing to do with compliance to
the JASO MA requirements.
 

rug_burn

Member
Makes me wonder what if any CD spec Mobil 1 15w-50 meets... In general, I like the fact that it lasts so long, requiring fewer oil changes, and the generally high quality of synthetics.
 

dalco450

Member
All my friends and me are using Motul 5100 10W40. 28.99$ for 4L.

Fazer 8, Ninja 650R, GSX-R1000, FZ6R, SV650, CBR600RR, DRZ400SM,
Never had any problem.
 

Marthy

Member
Never stop fascinating me. After politics and religions, oil thread are the next big thing that get people all wind up! LOL I've seen fuel grade thread too going big too.
 

rug_burn

Member
Never stop fascinating me. After politics and religions, oil thread are the next big thing that get people all wind up! LOL I've seen fuel grade thread too going big too.

Yeah, it's funny- in the end the items of continual interest and endless re-hashing are the ones you deal with every day- best oil, best tires, what pressure, etc.

Howard Stern used to say that what mattered most to the average Joe was how he was gonna get home that night...
 
H

Hoover

Guest
Yeah, it's funny- in the end the items of continual interest and endless re-hashing are the ones you deal with every day- best oil, best tires, what pressure, etc.

Howard Stern used to say that what mattered most to the average Joe was how he was gonna get home that night...


Ooohhhh, lets start a thread about "shock jocks".

I'll start...Howard Stern is a fucktard of the highest order.. He fell out of the douchebag tree and hit every branch on the way down. Overated and untalented...just my :2cents:

:D:D:D
 
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