CLUNK!!!

[Speedo007]

Don't get me wrong I love the bike...but why oh why the huge CLUNK when passing from Neutral to first gear...I've had all kinds of bikes, twins, 3 cylinders, I rode inline 4s before, never ever have I had a bike that makes such a noise when putting it in first gear from neutral...

It just feels like if idle speed was too high...but it's not...

Hope this improves with time...

 

[lothodon]

hold the clutch in longer before shifting to see if it helps. my r1 was nasty too unless i was more patient and let things spin down first.

 

[Speedo007]

Snowing/raining today, but will try it as soon as the sun is back...

 

[Ozfazer6]

My FZ6 is the same in cold weather,much better in warm conditions.It helps a little if you pull and release the clutch several times before going for first.

 

[RedarT]

A classic yamaha feature! But it doesn't ever break, dont worry, it is normal. You should hear my fz6! When i first bought it i almost hesitate to put it in gear. Then there is also a huge clunk when changing from 1st to 2nd when rpms are over 4000. Even though, nothing bad has ever happened to me or everyone else as far as i know.

 

[00007]

i noticed it also i asked my dealer they said fz seriese are famous for it and even some of the older R1's did the same!

 

[Speedo007]

Guess it just means I'll need to get used the "normal" clunk
Went for another ride today sun was out. Tried pulling in the clutch a few times, holding it longer, same Clunk. Only think that affected the clunk was rolling the bike while putting it in first, when the wheel turns the clunk is much more "normal". That said, you'd still look weird pushing your bike to avoid the clunk

Already 550km on the bike so far. What I love best about this bike is really the handling, so good. And the growl past 5k rpm...music to my ears.

 

[xpertsnowcarver]

Hahaha. Yea. That clunk is something to get used to.

Speedo, have you changed your oil yet? I highly recommend you do before you hit 750km.

 

[Speedo007]

I usually pretty much follow the guide book, but sooner then later...Probably have it changed at the same time as they install the goodies later this week maybe...I dont want to change it too soon though, as break-in last for the first 1600km...

 

[Speedo007]

Just talked with a guy from Yamaha this morning. He told me there's special oil in the bike for break-in (contains additives for break-in) that it's good to do the complete break-in before switching to synthetic oil.

The other break-in option I've heard of was to gun it (like race it on a track of 50-100km and then change oil) and break-in is done. But until I have a racing track in my backyard I won't be trying that one

 

[xpertsnowcarver]

I've read and have spoken with a lot of people regarding this. This "special" oil that people try to sell others on is nothing more than conventional or partly synthetic oil with a lot of Zinc. This "special" oil is basically regular deisel engine oil.

There is a lot to consider when breaking in a new or rebuilt engine. I recommend you do a mix of the two break in methods.

By all means don't rev out the bike higher than 6000RPMs for the first ###kms (follow the guide here), but feel free to get there quickly (Feel free to accelerate quickly, just dont stop and hold it at 6000RPMs. Let the RPM come back down in gear.).
Do the same for 9000RPMs for the next set of kms (follow the guide here for the next set). But I recommend you change your oil in between and right after the break in. You may regret not changing the oil earlier when you notice some pretty thick metal particles in your oil by the time you change your oil according to the guide book.

Another thing to note is that it's one thing to rev the engine up relatively easy under load, but its another thing to sit there holding it at an RPM. "No Load" reving can screw engines whether braking it in or not. Putting the engine under a load is what seats the piston rings. An oil with a lot of zinc will promote an efficient break in.

 

[Speedo007]

Other then the CLUNK has anyone noticed how the engine kind of hesitates when you're coming to a stop like around 2100rpm (1st and 2nd gear)? Hard to describe it but if I don't pull in the clutch at low revs, it starts to jerk (kind of like if I was in 6th gear at 20km/h..but I'm not). I've never experienced this on any other bike (even small 650cc parallele twins). Wondering if it's cause it's freakin' cold outside, cause Im still in the break-in period, or if it's simply the lack of torque at low rpm from inline 4s...(this is my first i-4 I've only had twins and triples. Though I've ridden i-4s before and never experienced this on those either)

 

[xpertsnowcarver]

Hmm.. I'd suspect the ECM can handle very cold temps at operating temperature, but if it continues after your break in is over, have the dealer give it a look over. Gotta love the warranty. Did you purchase the extended warranty as well?

 

[Speedo007]

No got it free in the deal (2 full years instead of 1)

 

[Speedo007]

Hmm.. I'd suspect the ECM can handle very cold temps at operating temperature, but if it continues after your break in is over, have the dealer give it a look over. Gotta love the warranty. Did you purchase the extended warranty as well?

Just to be sure, you can let the bike go on compression until it reaches like 1500rpm without ever jerking?

 

[00007]

i have had no problems with anything... i agree with xpertsnowcarver that the ecm can handle the cold temps my snowmobiles fuel injection works great even when its 30c out (my snowmobile is fuel injected)