Adding a dampening valve to the left for

[Call me knight hawk]

I have been doing some research on the front forks of this bike in order to make them better. From what I understand there is a dampening mechanism in both forks but a dampening valve in the right fork only. Has anyone thought about adding a dampening valve to the left side and a aftermarket dampening pack to both sides? Please anyone who has taken the forks apart or is familiar with them can this be done.

 

[Deleted member 438]

Ohlins has a cartridge kit for our fork. Product search - Öhlins You can also have them revalved by racetech, but you still won't have adjustability.

 

[Call me knight hawk]

Thanx for that

I might try the FZ1 forks.

 

[Deleted member 438]

I might try the FZ1 forks.

That's exactly what I did.

 

[Fz2fast4u]

Doom how do you like the forks

 

[Deleted member 438]

Doom how do you like the forks

So far so good. I haven't been able to ride it much because my back is acting up, but there is considerably less dive from the front end under braking. Even rocking it while it's parked you can feel how much stiffer it is and I have it set at the stock settings. I think it's going to work out just fine.

 

[mikefz8]

So far so good. I haven't been able to ride it much because my back is acting up, but there is considerably less dive from the front end under braking. Even rocking it while it's parked you can feel how much stiffer it is and I have it set at the stock settings. I think it's going to work out just fine.

So call me a noob or whatever, but from a suspension stand point, what is the advantage of having stiffer shocks up front?

 

[JTB]

Stiffer forks mean less dive and less compression (when the forks compress when hitting a bump).

And the ohlins fork internals add full adjustability to our forks. As well, race techs should be able to adjust after you take out the shims. Unless I am mistaken, as this was doable on my 6 with gold valve emulators.

 

[Call me knight hawk]

I don't want to have to change the discs an wheel to accommodate the FZ1 forks. The left fork has rod and cartage just no valve. If I could add a valve the left side and swap the nonadjustable cap for adjustable ones all I would have to do is remove the shims and I would be good to go "In theory". So if anyone know if it would be possible to add a valve to the left fork and is
FZ1 fork caps would fit that would be awesome.

 

[Call me knight hawk]

Sorry for my grammar and spelling on the previous post, I guess I should proof read then first.

 

[impostor1981]

U can do what I did take internals (cartridges) out from FZ1 and put them in to FZ8 tubing, all fits perfect and no need to change the hub nor wheel

 

[Fz2fast4u]

How much is the full kit for the forms from ohlins? Also to do an internal swap weather it's fz1 or ohlins do the forks have to be removed?

 

[impostor1981]

When I spoke to ohlins they said it would be about 1000 pouds for the fork internals.
Yes tje forks have to be removed. I did it by myself and I am not a mechanic, as a matter of a fact it was first time ever I was disassembling forks. If u know what to do its 3-4 hours job but If you dont it may take 3 days :-D

 

[Fz2fast4u]

Wow that's a lot if money

 

[sandroon]

U can do what I did take internals (cartridges) out from FZ1 and put them in to FZ8 tubing, all fits perfect and no need to change the hub nor wheel

So please explain me one more time: You've changed the original forks "content" with the fz1's one? Only the regulation cap or all the valve-regulation-piston-spring set?......

 

[impostor1981]

Well basicly what you do is you undo the cap on the top of the fork and bolt at the bottom of the fork drain the oil and pull the cap and it all wil come out all together. It is in form of cartridge spring cap and shock absorber are all connected together so you just slide it in to FZ8 tubing. Secure the bolt at the bottom of the fork top the oil up, secure the cap and you are all done ;-)

 

[Deleted member 438]

Well basicly what you do is you undo the cap on the top of the fork and bolt at the bottom of the fork drain the oil and pull the cap and it all wil come out all together. It is in form of cartridge spring cap and shock absorber are all connected together so you just slide it in to FZ8 tubing. Secure the bolt at the bottom of the fork top the oil up, secure the cap and you are all done ;-)

I thought I would have to completely disassemble both forks, which meant getting a few specialty tools. The whole cartridge comes out without removing the spring?

 

[impostor1981]

Yep, you may find it difficult to put oil in if you do not disassemble internals but i managed to do it with suction pump to pump the oil right in.

 

[beefcake morris]

So if I understand this correctly.

If I got a set of FZ1 gen II forks and removed the end cap and everything in it, then I could just take those items from the FZ1 gen II forks and place them inside my current FZ8 forks of course after removing what is in the FZ8 forks.

This way I would not have to source a new front axel and a FZ1 or R1 rim.

 

[Deleted member 438]

So if I understand this correctly.

If I got a set of FZ1 gen II forks and removed the end cap and everything in it, then I could just take those items from the FZ1 gen II forks and place them inside my current FZ8 forks of course after removing what is in the FZ8 forks.

This way I would not have to source a new front axel and a FZ1 or R1 rim.

There is the issue of getting the fork oil level right and you're also not able to get the old oil out of the cartridge. I guess you can measure exactly what comes out and and then add that exact amount.