HOW TO: Change your handlebars and grips

ramrod

New member
This installation instruction is for installing an oversized bar, 1 1/8'', but you can use portions of it to do a direct swap, 7/8'' bar, or install grips.

All FZ8 controls have a nipple on them which leads to either cutting off the nipple or drilling the bars to accommodate the nipple. Since I will be adjusting the bars after I get a pair a rear sets I decided to cut off the nipples w/ the exception of the throttle cable housing. The housing nipple is necessary in my opinion since you want it to be solid so It won't slip when you are on the throttle.

Installation is straight forward, i'd rate it a 3 out of 5 in difficulty, mainly because it was a pain to remove the stock grips. Just make sure that you take your time in order not to scratch your new bars and aligning the bars correctly if you are upgrading the the fat bars.

If you have any questions or have suggestions to improve the write-up please feel free to contact me, enjoy.

Parts Used:
- Driven Meteor CR Low Oversized Bars
- Driven Triple Tree Bar Mount
- Driven D3 Aluminium Grips
- Driven Bar Ends (NOT INSTALLED, awaiting adapters)

Items Needed:
- Phillips and Flat Head Screwdrivers
- Allen Wrench Set (T Handle's or Sockets preferred)
- 14mm Wrench
- 8mm Socket/Wrench
- Anti-seize
- Air Compressor (helps greatly to remove grips)
- Razor blade, sandpaper, dremel for nipples



Ideally a rear stand is helpful so you can get your handle bar straight to help adjust the bar side to side, forward, backward and also turning to check clearance. Here is a picture from the FSM showing how the Handlebar is mounted:



First begin by removing the both stock bar ends with Allen Wrench:


Starting w/ the right side, remove the Throttle Cable Housing using an Allen Wrench and move aside:


Once housing is opened, carefully remove both cables from Throttle Sleeve. After cables are removed, slide Throttle Sleeve from Handlebar and set aside.

Remove Emergency Shut-off/Starter switch using Phillips Screwdriver and set aside:


Remove Master Cylinder Assembly Clamp using an Allen Wrench and set aside:


Next we'll work on the left Handlebar. Remove Turn Signal/Horn Switch screws located on the bottom using a Phillips Screwdriver:



Carefully open the Turn Signal/Horn Switch to remove it from Handlebar. Here is an example of the nipples you will encounter:


You will not be able to completely remove the Clutch Lever Bracket, so loosen bolt using 8mm socket:


Remove Caps from Bar Clamps fasteners and remove bolts using an Allen Wrench:


Once you remove the last clamp, you can easily slide off the Clutch Lever Bracket by sliding it off the other end of the handlebar.

Removing a stock grip is moderately difficult if you ask anyone who has done this. If you are replacing the Grips then you only need to remove the stock grip from the Throttle Sleeve since you will be reusing the sleeve. If you have an air compressor, the job is a little less difficult but still a pain. Here is a passage from the FSM on how to remove the stock grip:



Remove the Stock Bar Clamps by re-installing the top of the clamp and using the Handlebar to turn the top while holding the nut on the bottom using a 14mm Wrench:


Here is a side by side of the Stock Bar Clamp with the Driven Bar Camp:


Unfortunately the bolt for the Driven Bar Camps is too think to fit into the Triple Tree so I went to the Hardware store and bought a set of Allen Bolts, Washers, and Nylock Nuts.

Installation is done in the reverse order. When installing all associated hardware, it is a good idea to use some Anti-seize on all threads. After installing the Driven Bar Camps, dry fit the Handlebar and adjust the Bar Camps until the bar sits perfectly inside them with no gaps.

After I had everything installed I noticed that the hand placement was a little farther than I like so I ended up cutting off 3/4'', with a Sawzall, off either of the bars in order to bring my hands in. Although this wasn't necessary, I prefer a narrow grip placement.

Nipples: After reading the threads on this board and other boards I had to make the decision to either shave off the nipples or drill into the bars. Take time in considering either of these options. As stated before, I ended up shaving off the nipples on everything except the Throttle Cable Housing, which I carefully fitted, measured and drilled the hole into the tube to accommodate the nipple. This is mainly due to safety. You need the Housing to remain absolutely stationary in order for the throttle to work properly. Last thing I wanted was for the housing to slip during a ride and have the throttle snap back closed.

Here are a couple pics of the bars:












Thanks for reading and let me know if you require assistance or clarification.
 
F

Fazed

Guest
Nice how to :)

If you don't have compressed air and are not intending to keep the original grips you can simply cut them off.
 

AlCab

New member
Great write up, thank you! I am going to change out my grips and this is just what I was looking for.
 

Niko

New member
If you don't have compressor, use WD-40, it works very well! I did it on 3 bikes, 30 seconds / grip...

To fix the new grips, i use... sugar! I suck one and i spit on the bar. Easy to put the grip and when it's dry, it never moves...
 
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F

Fazed

Guest
If you don't have compressor, use WD-40, it works very well! I did it on 3 bikes, 30 seconds / grip...

To fix the new grips, i use... sugar! I suck one and i spit on the bar. Easy to put the grip and when it's dry, it never moves...
Hair spray is another trick. Spray it on the inside of the grip and while still wet slide it on. Once it dries it sticks like glue.
 

SBGuy

New member
How do I get the screw hole for bar ends on a new handlebar? I'M confused. the new bar is hollow.
 
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