I am not sure why Yamaha went this way on the FZ8, the FZ1 has a high and low beam filament on both sides. Both sides light up on low and high beam just like a car. I sold my FZ8 a couple of years ago and bought a FZ1. I did the mod on the FZ8 because I got tired of ppl telling me I had a burnt...
Heat it up using a hair dryer and peal if off. It should come off fairly easily when heated. If there is any thing left on the tank use goo - gone to remove the rest.
You can either cut off the old grips or use an air gun between the grip/bar if you want to save them. To install the new grips, spray WD40 on the bar and inside the grips then slide them on quickly with force. The WD40 dries quickly and you only have a minute or so to get them on.
There is plug in the center with a o-ring, probably leaking from the o-ring. I would look at the cover very closely to see if there are any cracks. You can buy the plug and new o-ring to see if that stops the leak. The 3 bolts around the plug hold the alternator stator and have sealing washers...
The FZ8 and FZ1 have the same frame and swing arm, just make sure you get the spacers with the wheel, not sure if there is a difference. The rim is a bit wider but will fit, the 8 has a 180 rear tire and the 1 has a 190 rear tire.
Use this how to or just run a wire from the low beam on one side to the low beam on the other. Can't remember which side is which. If you read the complete tread, there is no risk of overloading the circuit.
http://www.779cc.org/forum/how-to-s-/2857-how-new-fazer8-dual-low-beam-mod-wip.html
Do yourself a favor and do your homework, then make the decision based on fact. There are lots of misconceptions and plenty of armchair mechanics out there that have no idea how EFI works, what flashing does and how fuel controllers work, just repeating information they read somewhere. There is...
Yes the bolt holes are a cast part of the engine case, that plate is there to hopefully protect the engine case in the event that the chain breaks. You don't need it for the chain to run properly on the sprocket. Personally I would just leave the metal plate off, put new sprockets and chain on...
The sensor you are talking about is called a MAP or (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor.
Remove the fuel tank and it is easily accessible
This bike is not OBD 1 or 2 compatible, it has its own built in diagnosis system
All of this is explained in detail in the shop manual
No abnormal wear or disc damage, no different than stock except they bite a bit harder. If your happy with the stock braking power I would just stick with stock pads.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xrdrfcyqvbf36pg/Jumbo%20Map%202013.pvm?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jf24l3wk9ctyyj3/Jumbo%27s%20Map%20Fz8%202.16.12.pvm?dl=0
Here are both of his maps.
Sorry, both links are fixed now